Sunday, October 22, 2023

2 years in Egypt




Things we loved about living in Egypt.

1. Saving money: The financial benefits of living in Egypt cannot be under sold. It was the best thing about moving here. We saved a lot of money while enjoying a high quality of life. Travel, going out to eat, having a housekeeper come 2 days a week, not worrying about money at all for 2 years it was amazing. We were able to meet some very big financial goals and it felt so good. 

2. Our apartment: we loved the location, the view, the size, how bright it was. This apartment is exactly the type of place I pictured us living in while we were here. We are also really glad we chose to live in New Cairo. It is so much more open, updated and organized than Maadi.  

3. Our church community:  The branch was right around 45 members the 2 years we were here. When Mark and I lived here in 2006 - 2008 it was close to 90 members. The benefit of such a small group is how close you can become with the other members. While living away from Maadi where all the other members lived sometimes made this feel harder than we'd like we are grateful for the closeness of our branch here.  When we talk to members at home about our old ward it is shocking to hear of a youth group with 50 members. Here there were 10 primary kids, 3 YM and 3 YW. Mark served as the District President for the two years we were here, he got called a week after we moved in, and it was an interesting and challenging calling for him to fulfill. 

4.  Sites within Egypt and proximity to other countries: before moving here I really had no idea how much variety there is in Egypt. When I thought of Egypt my mind went straight to temples and pyramids. I really had no idea that it was a huge and sought after beach destination. The snorkeling in Dahab is the best and the prettiest ocean/sea water I have ever seen is on Egypt's North Coast. 

5. The friends Jared and Lydia made. Jared was really fortunate that within a month or so of starting school he had a solid friend group of just really nice boys. Boys that teachers love having in class and are just good. Karrem A, Yassin G, Marwan A, Kareem E, Yueyang, Malek S, Tony H. his second year. It was great to see these boys interact with each other. After our first year Thomas moved into our branch and he and Jared became close friends and Thomas was so good for Jared. These kids took Jared in and helped him feel wanted and cool and it was awesome to see. 

Thomas Jackson and Jared.  I loved this friendship so much. 

Farewell gathering with Jared's AIS friends. Nacho lunch, water balloon fun, and ice cream sundaes. 
Jared, Tony, Tolu, Yassin, Kareem, Malek, Marwan and Yuyang


It was really hard to take Jared away from this friend group. 

 Lydia had such a hard time with school and friends our first year here. It was really hard. To see her develop some strong friendships in 5th grade was so rewarding. When Karma A moved here from Vietnam, we knew prayers had been answered. They fit so well. Lana, Amina and Rawia were great for Lydia and then June from church our 2nd year just made Egypt so much better for Lydia. We will always hold a soft spot in our heart for Lydia's teacher Ms. Erin (Rutherford). She is one of those teachers you read about on social media, the one who meets every student where they are and continually builds them up. She was Lydia's biggest fan and just got her. We feel so happy that we got to see this powerful example of a loving teacher in our own daughter's life. Because of Ms. Erin and Karma, Lydia could actually find something positive to say about AIS which we never thought would happen after 4th grade. 4th grade was just too much culture shock for her. It is a real thing and she could not comprehend how this was a school. To see her actually sad to not be at AIS next year was so unexpected. Despite it making leaving harder it was so nice to see this experience end on a positive note for Lydia. 

Karma, Rawalia, Khadiga, Lydia

The real problem with Egypt was always our school. There were very few things Mark and I could find to like about AIS. We worked with some wonderful teachers and interacted with some really nice kids but overall it was so far from the school environment we wanted to be in, we just couldn't stay. My job was so unfulfilling, and Mark felt like he was managing behavior 80% of the time and teaching 20%. I don't remember ever hearing him say he was enjoying teaching here. 

Our original plan was to stay in Egypt for 3 years. That all changed at a whole school meeting in December 2022. Our school was basically running out of money. They had been losing money since 2016 and with the devaluation of the pound the school could no longer afford its foreign hired teachers.  I met with the head of the school about a week before the meeting to see about moving from the Middle school (Middle schoolers are mean and grumpy) to the primary school and found out that my job with my foreign hire benefits would not exist next year. I could take a job as a full-time teacher and retain my benefits, but that was the last thing I wanted to do. We knew we could live comfortably in Egypt on Mark's salary, but if I was not working full time, we would have to pay tuition for one of our kids and we were not willing to do that. We would also lose any ability to save money which was the number one goal of coming here. We toyed with the idea of me homeschooling Lydia and doing work I enjoyed more online if I could find it, but then the school announced a change in how we would be paid. Instead of 80% of our salary in USD and 20% in EGP it would be 75% in USD and 25% in EGP but we would be held at an exchange rate of 21.6 pounds to the dollar instead of whatever the current rate was.  (Right now its 30.8 EGP to 1 dollar) With rising prices and not being sure what income I would have and Mark not even liking his job we felt it was time for us to move on. The worst part is that we didn't even really feel like we got to make this decision. It felt like the school forced our hand. It was taken away from us and put us in a tight spot for finding a new suitable job. That very day Mark along with many, many other teachers activated his search associate account and started looking for new jobs. 

It took longer than we hoped to get his profile activated and once he did it took a really long time to hear back from schools. Eventually he heard back from Saint Francis College in Sao Paulo, Brazil. Saint Francis is full IB school (the full program includes: early years, primary, middle and diploma) and a British school. Mark has wanted to be back in an IB school since he left his school in Colorado. The IB program is an approach to teaching that he prefers and enjoys. We wanted a smaller school and a school with a lot more discipline/structure. It is a K-12 school with around 900 students. AIS had over 2000 students. Mark served his mission in Brazil and is really looking forward to being back in Brazil. He is happy to have a chance to receive IB training and thinks he would one day like to be an IB coordinator so finding a school with a full program was important to him. Mark was offered this job in late March, and we are looking forward to experiencing Brazil. We really hope we love the school and living in Sao Paulo and can stay there for many years. 

Getting our work permit/visa has been an incredibly frustrating process. Our school hires an agency to do this for them and both the agency and the school told us it was a long process, but we did not expect it to be this challenging or slow. School starts August 15th, and we are still in Egypt waiting for them to come through. We have tickets for August 14th and really hope we can use them. The amount of stamps and signatures and the slowness of the Embassy here and in Brasilia has been maddening to say the least. I already struggle with the unstructured ness of Summer and have just been feeling stuck here all Summer, bored to death. I lacked any motivation to plan activities and was just frustrated that nothing seemed to be happening. Summer of 2023 is definitely in the top 3 of my least favorite summers so far. We wanted to move to Brazil on July 21 one month after school ended here. We had a trip planned to Israel with Mark's sister and would not be back in Egypt until July 02. School meetings started in Brazil August 01 so it felt too tight to go home and visit everyone in the states. So, we planned to go straight to Brazil from Egypt. That was a mistake. We have just been stuck here waiting for the embassy to call us in. Had I known how long this was going to take I would have most definitely planned our summer differently. It has just been long, hot and boring. 

Jared does not want to move to Brazil. He loves Egypt.  He is not mean or grumpy about it but we know it is not the outcome he hoped for.  I feel bad taking him away from a place he loves and we all just hope Brazil is a better fit for the next years. 

We moved out of our apartment (August 12th) after selling basically everything we owned and into a friend's apartment in Maadi. They live in a villa out in New Cairo so the apartment is furnished but not lived in. It was incredibly generous of them to let us stay at their place. While we were incredibly grateful to have a place to stay we were not happy to still be in Egypt. We would have enjoyed staying in Egypt a bit more if we could have been in our own place with our own stuff. We had made what we thought were good plans and none of them worked out. It was so frustrating. We were just spending money we wanted to spend in Brazil and our days were long, hot and empty.  School started and we were nowhere near getting our work permits cleared. We just kept hoping and waiting to get good news from Brazil. Mark actually booked 3 separate tickets to fly to Brazil even though he had no idea when we would leave, he just couldn't help it. It was driving me crazy. We would show up to church each week and have no updates to give anyone. We said goodbye to friends from school multiple times and just constantly wondered what we were supposed to be learning. I still haven't figured out what the lesson was, I don't think there was one this time just government slowness. 


We lived on the 2nd floor (3rd in America).  It was such a great place to live. 




Around the corner from our apartment was a gas station with a Krispy Kreme. Lydia kindly treated us to donuts and summer lemonades as she was trying to use up her Egyptian pounds. This was in front of a huge, beautiful mosque right next to the gas station. When we moved to this spot this mosque seemed so our of place for Cairo where most things are old, dusty and brown. 


We loved driving by this mosque at night, it was so pretty. The colors would change depending on the evening. Most often this blue and a fun purple/pink color. 

One positive of this time in Maadi was that Jared and Lydia had a chance to experience living in Maadi and having more interactions with their friends (mostly branch members) there. There were also quite a few new families who moved in, and it was nice to get to meet them. I know it wasn't all bad and things did all work out but it was still a horrible and frustrating summer. I missed having a routine and just normalcy to our life. 

Lydia spent as much time as possible at our friends the Ayer's house. She and Aya would spend hours in their pool and had so much fun. I think they would have hung out a lot more if we lived in Maadi not New Cairo. 

We sold our car before moving from New Cairo so once we got to Maadi we did a lot more walking.  This juice shop was at the end of the road our friend's apartment was on so we spent some good time there while we lived in Maadi. Mark loves fresh juice, so it was perfect for him. Jared and Lydia loved "Oreo juice" which was basically an Oreo milkshake. 

We finally got our work permits cleared on September 12. We went to the Brazilian consulate in Cairo at 9:00 am on the 12th, got our visas into our passports and then flew out that evening at 6:00. Since we had been living out of suitcases for all of August and September it wasn't that hard to quickly pack up, clean the apartment, drop off a few items we had left and head out. 



When we were in Israel in June we happened to find a can of guarana, a well-loved soda from Brazil. We bought it and saved it to drink to celebrate getting our work permits/visas. We drank it in the taxi back to Maadi. 

 Once we got our visas we asked to borrow the Brazilian flag at the reception desk downstairs. The guys at reception (Egyptian) happily let us and took our picture. They were pretty happy for us. We had made many trips to the consulate, so they recognized us pretty well (being foreigners helped too). One part of the problem this Summer was the time difference and work week between Brasilia and Cairo. If anything got approved in Brazil on a Thursday it came after the workday ended in Cairo. Then we wouldn't get word about it until Sunday but then the office in Brazil was closed. It was so annoying. Another problem was the Brazilian consulate in Cairo itself. Their website never worked to book appointments, and they never answered their phone or emails. It was so difficult to get any information from them. On the day the Brazilian work permit came through we showed up at the consulate as requested and they said to come back tomorrow, and our visas would be ready. Mark was like "nope. I am not leaving here without our visas in our passports."  The employee did not look pleased but said she would try to get it done. It took just over 2 hours, and we were all set which was a really good thing since our flight was in 6 hours, so we had 4 hours until we had to leave for the airport. 

Our friends from church stopped by to say goodbye which ended up being a perfect way to leave Cairo. It was the longest, hardest summer ever and not how we wanted to end our time in Egypt but when it comes to government bureaucracy you really can't know what you are going to get. Brazil actually ended up making Egypt look pretty good which is really saying something.

June Jackson and Lydia.  
They ended up being such good friends and were so good for each other. 

Julianne Webber, Sarah Jackson, Noelle Kempton.
The Webbers arrived in Cairo from Peru the beginning of August and sometimes I really do think they were part of the reason we had to stay as long as we did.  

Mia and Caleb Webber, Kasia Jackson, John Kempton, Jared, Thomas Jackson, Brayden Kempton



As Mark looked at flight options the one he kept coming back to was Qatar Airways. Since our school had allocated a certain amount of money for us and we only needed one way tickets he decided to splurge and book business class tickets. The prices were really good and as it was a 15-hour flight he decided it was worth it pay the extra cost out of pocket. Another big factor was the luggage allotment.  Most airlines only give you one bag free even for international flights now so to get all of our stuff here would have cost a lot of money. We ended up not paying for any luggage which was so helpful.  We flew just under three hours to Doha and then 15 to Sao Paulo and actually arrived here pretty well rested. All of us slept over 7 straight hours. Jared slept almost 10 of the 15. This was really helpful as the very next day (a Thursday) we all went to school, just a month after it started. We have been settling in pretty well and are just happy to have routines and be starting our new adventure. 






Friday, May 6, 2022

Living in Egypt II

We are just 43 days away from flying home for the Summer.  School finishes June 16th and we fly out on June 18th.  We are sopping in Iceland for a week on our way home and should arrive in Utah on June 26th. We will drive out to Yuba City the second week of July for a week and then back to Utah until late July.  From Utah we head out to Virginia until August 12th when we fly back to Cairo for year 2. 

Sites visited:
Luxor
Petrified Forest 
Saqqara Step Pyramid Complex
Il Campo on the Nile
Giza Pyramid Complex - camel ride
Egyptian Museum in downtown Cairo 
Alexandria 
Hurghada 
Al Azhar Park and Khan Al Khalili Ramdan Style

Visitors: we had our first set of visitors come out.  It was so nice to have our friends the Shedd's come out to visit from Charlottesville. Chris was Mark's favorite coworker at Burley. He and his wife Sarah have 2 kids, Asher and Autumn who are the same age as Jared and Lydia. These kids really bonded while they were here. I think having them here felt so familiar and comfortable for Jared and Lydia and made them really happy.  They brought us some of our favorites from home and it was really nice to have a taste of home.  They are just a really nice, easy going family and we all loved having them here.  We loved seeing their excitement and wonder at all you can find in Egypt. 

Ramadan:  we made it through our first Ramadan. All of the Ramadan decorations (streamers, crescent moons, lanterns, bright fabrics and lights) made me so happy. Cairo is a pretty brown, dusty place so seeing all these splashes of color was so fun.  It felt so festive, like the month of December back home. For Ramadan school was shortened 1 hour which we all loved. The first week of school was really rough. All the students were exhausted and hungry and grumpy. They got more used to their flipped Ramadan routine as the weeks went on.  Jared got invited to a friends house for Iftar, the meal to break their fast and it was so nice to be included.  Mark and I drove him over there and stayed to visit with the host (Menna, Yassin's mom) who is such a nice inclusive person. We definitely had some annoyances with Ramadan, food and groceries being incredibly delayed and things being closed but overall our lives were not that interrupted. 

Transportation: Since moving here we have gone back and forth about getting a vehicle. We knew we did not want to rent a car as its 400$ a month but if you buy a car you mostly have to pay cash upfront and we did not think we could swing that.  It turns out Mark's proposed budget was pretty accurate and we can save a lot of money here!  Some teacher friends (Garrett - (he teaches SS same as Mark) and Kaylee Hayes (Permanent Substitute like me)) happened to have 2 cars and wanted to go down to 1 so they offered to let us rent their second car for a month to see if we wanted to drive around here. We tried it out and it did improve our quality of life enough we decided to go ahead and buy it. It helps knowing they were the only previous owners. We were not looking forward to another hot summer of Uber rides having Jared, Lydia and myself crammed in the back seat and it is so nice to be able to make multiple stops when were out and just keep stuff in our car.  Mark does most of the driving but I have done the drive back to out house from church in Maadi (its 30 minutes) and it went really well.  

School: I have almost finished a long term sub job for a teacher who is out on maternity leave.  I started covering her class around March 20th and will finish up My 22nd.  Overall its gone really well, she teaches English Applications and has only 4 classes plus homeroom and her English classes are 6 or less students so its been pretty nice. It's felt good to get back in the swing of planning lessons and I now know how to use Powerschool. I think it will be a bit of a shock when I go back to teaching random classes each day and full classes of 20+ students. 
 Lydia still hates school. There is really nothing she likes about it except maybe that she is a teacher kid so she feels kind of special. Other than that she thinks its a horrible place. We talk a lot about resilient she has been and how much she has learned about what NOT to do at school (or rather had reinforced from home).  It's really sad and discouraging that it has been such a hard year for her. I hope so much that 5th grade will be better for her.  At least she will go into it knowing what to expect.  She does have a few nice friends now after a lot of friend drama late last fall/winter. I think she is feeling more settled but she cannot wait for 4th grade to be over. 
Jared has a really strong group of friends which has been such a blessing. AFL is still his favorite class. It's small with just 6 students which I think helps a lot and it feels new and interesting since he came in knowing nothing.  We have been very disappointed with his lack of ability to self regulate using his device. He gets to class and immediately opens his laptop to watch Youtube. We are still really strict at home on devices so he sees school as his place to use his device for "free time".  He is doing very well in his classes, it is not keeping him from his work but we feel he rushes through it and does the minimum amount required so he can watch Youtube.  Classes are 80 minutes long which is a lot of time to fill, I wish they would shorten classes by 15 minutes.  I even went so far as to meet with the Principal to ask about schedule changes first as a parent, and then as an employee.  I don't feel 80 minute classes are developmentally appropriate. He has watched so much Youtube the last 8 months in school, it is ridiculous. Part of it is just having access to the Internet and him not choosing to do something else but another part is that he is smart and a native English speaker so he does have an advantage over other students that he can do the work quickly. It drives Mark and I crazy. If I was paying for this school I would be irritated.  I can't quite explain why, he is not missing assignments or interrupting classes (which is probably why teachers let him do it-they are glad he is quiet and easy) I just don't think its appropriate for a class setting.  It is not every class but enough to bother me. If they can't fill instruction time with meaningful work then classes should not be 80 minutes long. We will see if anything changes for 7th grade.  Lydia does not watch nearly as much as Jared but still watches way more than necessary. When I talk to other teachers at other international schools I realize our school is truly one of the best options here but our public schools at home were much better which is a hard pill to swallow since not everyone has that and we willingly left.  Overall school is fine but it has been disappointing as well. 

We feel pretty comfortable living here.  The ability to save money is by far the best thing about living in Egypt.  We do not love our apartment but love where it is located. We have looked at a few apartments in our neighborhood but so far our place is still the best option. Most of the time living here is good, not quite as fulfilling as I thought it would be having planned on doing this for so long but still a good thing. With Covid restrictions lifting we hope to get to know more branch members and teachers. Quite a few branch members are moving this Summer so we will see who is here when we come back in August. We have gotten to know a couple from the branch, Jeff and Crystal Zaugg who are here teaching at the Canadian School and it has been really nice.  They are only 6-7 years older than Mark and I but their children are all in college and they are kind of pseduo grandparents for Jared and Lydia and its really nice to have other adults they feel close to and enjoy being around. 

We are proud of how we have adjusted to living here and grateful to feel as settled as we do. Lots of prayers have been answered and its crazy to look back on that first month here/the last month in Charlottesville and see where we are now. 

Maroon 5 at the Pyramids.  Mark attended with a friend. I think I would have enjoyed it but still feel it was the right choice to skip this one. 

May the 4th and Cinco De Mayo - Jared was at a friends house for both these "holidays" having a pool party (both days oddly enough) but Lydia really wanted to celebrate them so we did our best. It was weird to not have him around for these traditions. Signs of him getting older.  They also both happened to fall during the end of Ramadan break when we were out of school.  

Boba Fetticine with bow TIE fighter noodles, lightsaber grapes and X wing breadsticks.  We also made pretzel lightsabers.  We watched the Phineas and Ferb Star wars episode which was perfect. 

Homemade tortillas and salsa and strawberry daiquiris. We also made churros but they didn't turn out that well. We watched Encanto as we ate.  


So much fun having the Shedd's here




First time on the Metro here

First Family camel ride
It was a bummer the visibility was so bad.  Hopefully next ride will be better. 

Spring Break in Turkey:  It was very nice to get out of Egypt.  

Not a good road to attempt to drive down

Still can't believe Jared and Lydia opted to not come on hot air balloon ride. We have to readjust our vacation plans to suit all of our wants its hard.


Sunday, January 23, 2022

Happy birthday Lydia!

At home, on occasion, we used to fill Pillsbury Crescent Rolls with sweet things like nutella, jam, and cream cheese filling then roll them in cinnamon sugar.  Sadly Pillsbury crescent rolls are not available here so I looked up a recipe online for homemade crescent rolls.  They ended up being a cross between cinnamon rolls and crescent rolls but I was glad I could make something similar. 

Lydia was really excited for her birthday. About a month ago I told her she could take the day off from school on her birthday which was likely the best gift we could give her. She planned the menu for the day and every meal included a breakfast item. We started with coffee cake and hot chocolate then ate filled crescent rolls for lunch and had crepes and eggs for dinner. It was a delicious day. Lydia spent her time reading and putting together some maker kits we got her.  She loves doing those. She got some sweet messages from friends and did a video call with her best friend in Charlottesville. Making friends here has been really hard for Lydia and it was really nice to hear her talking excitedly with a friend at home. We are really so proud of Lydia. It was a very hard adjustment for her to leave Charlottesville, a place she loves so much. She left everything familiar to her and ended up somewhere completely different. While she does not like school at all she does like Egypt and is happy to be here. Since adjusting to living here she has been more open to moving somewhere new after Egypt and often says, "when we move to....  after Egypt" which is nice to hear. Currently her wish is Japan. 

Lydia is kind, thoughtful, creative and proving to be very resilient. She loves making things from leftover boxes and other household items. She uses our garden space the most and comes up with lots of creative pretend scenarios, often involving making concotions/potions. Reading is still her go to option for free time and she has many favorite book series. She is a peacemaker and Jared is really lucky he got such a nice sister.  

Lydia had a clear vision for her cake this year. She wanted mint chocolate brownies with a winter theme for her treat. Mint ice cream is really hard to come by here in Egypt.  Awhile ago Mark and I found some mint ice cream dipped bars and Lydia loves them. She used two bars for a set of trees and then made some frosted snow covered ice cream cone trees. It turned out really nice.  I was doubtful and she proved me wrong and was so happy with how it turned out. 


Birthday Interview 

What is your favorite color? Light blue
What is your favorite toy? Creator sets
What is your favorite fruit? Watermelon
What is your favorite movie? Descendants
What do you do well? Read
What do you like to do with Daddy? Sing
What makes you happy? Creating and reading
What is your favorite scripture story? Noah's Ark
What is your favorite song? Evil from Descendants
What is your favorite animal? Wolf
What is your favorite book? Land of Stories 
Who is your best friend? Abby
What is your favorite place to go? Costa Rica
What is your favorite thing to do outside? Swim
What is your favorite drink? Dr. Pepper
What is your favorite holiday? Christmas
What do you like to do with Mom? Bake
What is your favorite thing to eat for breakfast? Crepes
What do you want for dinner on your birthday? Breakfast
What do you want to be when you grow up? Fashion designer, engineer, or cartoonist